PERIOD MAKEUP: 1940

PERIOD MAKEUP: 1940

When the war started in the 40's, people had no money for fake lashes, beautiful dresses or expensive accessories; they preferred to focus more on looking healthy but not too glamorous, in order to not look dirispectful.

The 40's makeup is very natural and essential, used just to enhance the natural beauty.

Max factor and Revlon were out and for the face women used liquid foundations plus pressed powder, slightly lighter than the base. For the lips the most popular colour was TRUE RED or SCARLET RED, going to orangy red in the late 40's ( MAC "ruby woo" is the classic 40's colour). For the cheeks they used well blended pink blushes, always trying to match the colour of blush and lips, while for the eyebrows, they just followed their natural shape, making it incredibly neat and a bit thicker.

To recreate this look you will need:

- a fair foundation slightly lighter than your natural shade plus a pressed powder to make the look matt

- a brown or grey eyeshadow to use in the evening, as in the daylight they didn't use any eyeshadow at all. The colour has to be very natural and warm, applied in a 20's way (a bit rounded) but well blended, especially on the edges

-  a very thin line of eyeliner, as close as possible to the eyelashes line; it follows the eye and goes up a tiny bit in the outside corner 

- very natural and neat lipshape, just follow your natural shape

Remember that nothing is shiny, all the colours are matt.

And that's all! Very easy but beautiful look to recreate, even if for me it was quite a challenge as when I makeup someone I tend to be very theatrical :) Anyway...I love period makeup!

Hope you like it and thanks for reading.

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PERIOD MAKEUP: 1930

 

In the 30's, after the war was over, people had more money to spend in amusement; there were a lot of parties in the society and +Hollywood just started.
Women in the 30's were more glamourous and sexy, and used to wear gorgeous dresses, plenty of jewels, accessories and fur coats. Bleach came out and they couldn't wait to dye their hair, so blonde became a really popular colour

-.

+VOGUE magazine was out and lot of women took inspiration from posing models for their styles.
Talking about makeup...

Eyebrows in the 30's were very thin, fake eyelashes were widely used, especally spidery lashes and corner lashes to make the eyes look deeper and longer. The face is less powdered than it was in the 20's and lip shapes are painted wider. The position of the blush is high and all eyeshadows are shimmery. Makeup becomes bright.

QUICK TIPS TO CREATE THIS LOOK:

- use a foundation that matches your skin and use a colour as natural as possible. Add a subtile layer of powder to hold everything in place

- use a dark colour for painting your eyebrows; you can also add some Vaseline on the top to make them shiny and flat

- apply an iridescent blush on the top of the cheeks

- choose an iridescent eyeshadow between the few colour available at the time such as blue, mauve, orange, green and gray; apply a light colour under the brow bone and a darker one in the socket. Create a lighter shade in the middle of the eye

- add a very thin eyeliner on the top; nothing on the bottom line

- paint the lips in the tones of raspberry, burgundy or plum  

- for a perfect 30's look remember to draw a beauty spot on your face!

And that is all!

Thanks for your time and I hope you like it.

If you do, please follow me here and on +instagram @ makeup_hidden_treasures :) 

PERIOD MAKEUP: 1920

PERIOD MAKEUP: 1920.

In the 20's women wanted to look like china dolls, so they didn't go out in the sun in order to have porcelain skins. They painted their lips in a rose shape and used to wear plenty of blush, as they didn't have a lot of makeup to wear. The eyeshadow was quite heavy, especially in the socket and the eyebrows were always drawn very thin, coming really down in the end and giving a sad look to the face. Lips were very dark, red wine colour. 

For this look you have to:

- use a pale base, two or three shades lighter than your skin colour

- use cream blushers after the foundation and powder. If you need to add more blush after powdering, use a powder blush

- for the eyes use just one colour of eyeshadow like brown or grey, darker in the socket. Start from the socket and blend it down to the eyelid, in a round shape (it doesn't have to go over the end of the eye). Put a little bit of smudgy eyeshadow under the eye as well

- apply a layer of evident blush, concentrated on the apple of the cheeks, but well blended (always think to china dolls)

- use matt colours for the lips and keep them a bit smaller than your actual shape, leaving the corners out and highlighting the cupid's bow.

If you want to do an evening version of this look just use darker eyeshadows like a dark grey or a dark brown. It is a quite easy look to achieve and all the attention is on the eyebrows and lips. I enjoyed creating this look, but it wouldn't have been the same without the black wig, the headband and the feather. Some little details can make such a big difference to you look!

Hope you like it and thanks for your time,
Michelle.

Please follow me on instagram @ makeup_hidden_treasures

 

PERIOD MAKEUP: 18th CENTURY

PERIOD MAKEUP: 18th CENTURY.

The 18th century is characterised by a very pasty makeup. They used carmine for face and lips and they thaught that to be pale was beautiful. They put on huge wigs and the richer they were, the bigger their wigs were. Sometimes they used a support to rest their neck because the wigs were very heavy. They put decorations in the wigs as well, like flowers, pearls and feathers. They used to shave their eyebrows, so they could paint them higher.
Their skin was awful because they didn't use any makeup remover and probably they used just to add more makeup on what they already had. To cover the imperfections of the skin they used to paint some beauty spots on their faces (in the shapes of heart, diamond, spade or flower) on the side of the face corresponding to their political orientation.

Lips and cheeks were always the same colour and to paint their eyelids or eyelashes they took the black from the top of candles.

To obtain this look we have to:

- paint the whole face in white adding some skin tone, so it doesn't look too fake and clowny. Remember to always take the colour down to the neck and blend down!

- shape the lips in an heartshape; it's almost three circles with blended edges. The colour is the same of the blush we use on the cheeks; we can actually use the same product on both parts, if it is a cream blush or a lip tint 

- remember to use concealer to mask the sides of the lips

- mask our eyebrows by using some soap previously soaked in water (this will help eyebrows to stay flat so we can paint higher ones)and paint the fake eyebrows very very high on the forehead, helping ourselves with small dots to have the shape we want
- apply the blush on the apples of the cheeks and blend the edges; it has to stay in circular shape
- always powder after every layer of makeup,as in this look everything has to be matt
- use eyeshadow just ont the eyelid and it doesn't have to be neat, as in the 18th century they used their fingers to apply makeup
- add one or more beauty spots on the cheeks

That's all!
Hope you enjoy.
Thanks for your time, 
Michelle.

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CONTOURING AND FACE SHAPES

CONTOURING AND FACE SHAPES

The word contouring comes from french and it means to outline, to give shape and this is exactly what this technique is used for in makeup. 
Contour is used to define cheekbones, jawline and to narrow or enlarge nose. We can use nude or skin-tone blushers,but also 2 or 3 tones darker shades of foundations.

ALWAYS contour pre-powder, so if you do a mistake you can easily correct it by cleaning the area and adding more foundation. Imagine drawing a line from the top of your lips to the top of your ear, stronger from the ear and weaker towards the lips.
Imagine drawing another line from both outer corner of the nose to both outer corner of the eyes (temple area) and draw a line where the jawline is, to make it stronger.
 ALWAYS blend the edges! 
Obviously, we all have different face shapes and the contouring changes according to them. 
1- OVAL SHAPE: most classic shape, well balanced, little or no contouring, maybe just a tiny bit on the cheeks.

2- ROUND SHAPE: full cheeks, non prominent chin. Contour under the cheekbones, jawline and temples, never on the chin.

3- INVERTED TRIANGLE: contour the cheeks, the temples area and the chin.

4- SQUARE SHAPE: contour on the temples area and on the jawline, blending up to the ears.

- DIAMOND SHAPE- little or no contouring is required, maybe a bit on the cheeks to minimize face wideness.

That's all for today.
Hope you like it!

EVENING MAKEUP

EVENING MAKEUP:

The light changes, so we can recreate a more dramatic look,with more colours, glitters, diamonds, pop liner, smokey eyes, fake eyelashes and much more... And this is my first evening makeup of the course of one on my colleagues and I think she looks so pretty with this look.
Hope you like it too! 
I Please like me on instagram: makeup_hidden_treasures
Have a nice day.

FOUNDATIONS

Hi everyone!

Today we studied the different kind of foundations we can find on the market:

- LIQUID: they are water-based and easy to remove

- GREASE: they are wax and grease based, more difficult to remove. Some can contain silicone and they are more suitable for mature or problematic skins. Some of them also contain perfume or alcohol and they are not the best option for sensitive skins

- MINERAL/POWDERED FOUNDATIONS: perfect for oily skin

REMEMBER:We all have different kind of skin and there are lot of things we need to consider before applying foundation. For example, if we put a foundation that contains alcohol on a person who has been drinking all night and has alcohol in the system, it will evaporate. Or, if we use foundation with SPF on a model that is going to pose for a shooting, there will most probably be a flashback.

 TIP:Always spend some minutes observing the skin we are making up.

Hope you find it helpful!

Thanks for your time,

Michelle York.   

UNDERSTANDING THE SKULL STRUCTURE AND GENERAL SUGGESTIONS

DAY 1

Today we learned to understand the skull structure of a person, touching each other's faces and underlining the hollows with black painting. This is very helpful to understand which areas we have to highlight when we makeup someone.

 It will also be very helpful for contouring the face; infact, the hollows in the skull are the parts we are going to contour.

Our tutor also explained us how to clean brushes: it is very important to clean your brushes everytime you finish to make up someone and even if you could use some chemical substances like IPA to clean them, it is always better to clean them under running water and some baby/neutral soap. Try to clean them very gently and after all the dirtiness has gone, give them the original shape and let them dry on a wipe. 

Remember to use chemical substances just when you are in a rush and have no choice.

Before applying any makeup, the face needs to be prepared : 

1- gently remove any makeup the person has on and apply a cleansing lotion giving the person a little massage with the tips  of your hands; this will also help the person relax

2- remove the lotion with two cotton wools humidified in water going around the face in circular motions

3- use a toner to remove any makeup excess and tone the face

4- massage a moisturizing cream and wait few moments to let it set into the skin.

While we are working we have to be able to self-support ourselves  and to not lean against objects or, worse, on the person we are making  up. To avoid back problems, a correct posture is very important and shoes are essential. Try to wear comfortable shoes a little bit higher in the back and absolutely ban flat shoes or UGG!

Do not wear any jewelery when you are making up someone, because it can cause injuries to the model and be uncomfortable for you.

Always use a hand sanitiser before you start working and a chewing-gum or a breath freshner. Remember that personal hygiene is very important for a makeup artist, because we work very closely to people's faces and it can be really unpleasant to be made up by someone who just peeled an orange or just smoke a cigarette.

Be sure that your model has ALWAYS a gown, so if you drop something it won't spot or damage the clothes or costumes. For men use tissues on the neck, especially if they are wearing a shirt.

That is all for the first day.

Write to you soon,

Michelle.

THIS IS ME THEN...

INTRO...let's get to know each other.

Hi everyone!

After I spent few years of my life trying to understand what I wanted to become, I finally choose what I always liked since when I was a little child but I never took into consideration as a possible career. And that is Makeup! After a lot of experiences during these years (of life and jobs), a degree I don't want to work with and travels around Europe I settled down in London (for the moment) :) . I just started an Advanced Complete Makeup Course and I would like to share my experiences and my days with you, posting pictures of the different things and makeup I learn and I try to do. And who knows...maybe one day I'll open a youtube channel (I'd really love to do it) For now that's all. I leave you with my first brushes kit and I'll write you soon about my first day in the Academy.

p.s. I'd also like to post everything I like and I feel passionate about... just like sharing :)

Have a nice evening,

Michelle.